3" Body Lift, Class 11 cage, Warrior Beam w/ 10" towers, 3x3

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#1: 3" Body Lift, Class 11 cage, Warrior Beam w/ 10" towers, 3x3 Author: Kreed , Location: Florida Post Posted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 05:14 PM
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So I decided to start a new thread for this potion of my build.
Body: 3" Lift, Class 11 cage, full paint, door panels, window scrapers, rear floor quarters
Front: Warrior Beam with 10" towers, Disc brakes, Rack & Pinion, Longer trailing arms, coil over shocks
Rear: 3x3 suspension, coil over shocks
Misc: Roller thottle pedal, Stage 2 clutch w/ 6 puck

So any advice would be greatly appreciated. My thoughts were: Body lift first,
front end rebuild, rear rebuild, cage, paint, misc stuff.

Most of the parts have arrived, but I'm still waiting on some things.

Perrib, Bugzyla, Az350x, MojaveRacer2008, phyrdup, anyone with any advice.....

#2: 3" Body Lift, Class 11 cage, Warrior Beam w/ 10" towers, 3x3 Author: Kreed , Location: Florida Post Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 07:19 PM
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Some parts have arrived. So far I have learned that the 3x3 trailing arms and front warrior beam do not come painted, and the 3" body lift does not come with a new gasket. So, how important is the body gasket when installing the 3" body lift???

#3: Re: 3" Body Lift, Class 11 cage, Warrior Beam w/ 10" towers, Author: wideopenmotorsports Post Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 08:24 PM
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The gasket is exactly that, a gasket. It seals out water, dirt, dust. Cuts down on cold air coming into the car etc. I would make sure you have one top and bottom if you are looking for a good seal.

Might also help keep down on noise.

#4: 3" Body Lift, Class 11 cage, Warrior Beam w/ 10" towers, 3x3 Author: Kreed , Location: Florida Post Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2013 12:09 AM
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Hmmm, ok. So I was thinking about using some weather striping with adhesive on one or both sides as an alternative. What are your thoughts on that?

#5: Re: 3" Body Lift, Class 11 cage, Warrior Beam w/ 10" towers, Author: klwdesigns , Location: Mesa, AZ Post Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2013 08:25 PM
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a gasket? huh. that might have been nice in hindsight. I'm pretty sure i skipped that. My car is noisy, and it is not sealed.

#6: Re: 3" Body Lift, Class 11 cage, Warrior Beam w/ 10" towers, Author: perrib , Location: Chandler Post Posted: Wed Feb 27, 2013 03:51 AM
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Gasket is the best way to go. If your sure your never going to remove the body silicone would work but your going to have to be able to remove the body to fully weld the cage or cut holes in the roof. Also your going to have to extend the cage for the body lift. Last edited by perrib on Wed Feb 27, 2013 03:58 AM; edited 1 times in total

#7: 3" Body Lift, Class 11 cage, Warrior Beam w/ 10" towers, 3x3 Author: Kreed , Location: Florida Post Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 06:36 PM
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--- Last edited by Kreed on Thu Feb 28, 2013 06:38 PM; edited 1 times in total

#8: 3" Body Lift, Class 11 cage, Warrior Beam w/ 10" towers, 3x3 Author: Kreed , Location: Florida Post Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 06:36 PM
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Ok, So I might silicone the pan to the 3" lift and then either gasket or weather strip the body to the 3" lift.
Dropped off the warrior beam, and 3x3 trailing arms for powder coating today, and I won't get them back until next week sometime. $175 for the powder coating.

#9: Re: 3" Body Lift, Class 11 cage, Warrior Beam w/ 10" towers, Author: perrib , Location: Chandler Post Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 09:15 PM
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Until you have the cage in you don't want to silicone the lift kit in. Two body gaskets are cheaper than all the silicone you'll need. Weather stripping glue has no body to fill gaps.

#10: 3" Body Lift, Class 11 cage, Warrior Beam w/ 10" towers, 3x3 Author: Kreed , Location: Florida Post Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2013 10:30 PM
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Thank you for the advice perrib. I just ordered 2. $10 each

#11: 3" Body Lift, Class 11 cage, Warrior Beam w/ 10" towers, 3x3 Author: vw505 , Location: NAS Lemoore,CA Post Posted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 01:53 AM
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What part of Florida are you in?

#12: 3" Body Lift, Class 11 cage, Warrior Beam w/ 10" towers, 3x3 Author: vw505 , Location: NAS Lemoore,CA Post Posted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 01:56 AM
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Oh before you sent the stuff out for powder coat did you fab the shock mounts?

#13: 3" Body Lift, Class 11 cage, Warrior Beam w/ 10" towers, 3x3 Author: Kreed , Location: Florida Post Posted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 03:11 AM
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Jacksonville..... and ummmm no... I didn't fab anything yet. I just coated the rear trailing arms and the Front warrior beam glossy black. They are really sweet looking now. You have me wondering why you asked.... I'm sorta scared right now. I'm still waiting on the body gaskets. I have to do the body lift first before anything else. I plan on starting to disassemble the car tomorrow and get it ready so when the gaskets arrive I can put it in quick.

#14: 3" Body Lift, Class 11 cage, Warrior Beam w/ 10" towers, 3x3 Author: vw505 , Location: NAS Lemoore,CA Post Posted: Sun Mar 10, 2013 03:17 AM
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Jax no $hit. I used to live there of Merrel Rd. Most 3x3's need shock mounts put on them as they as mostly used with coil shocks.

#15: 3" Body Lift, Class 11 cage, Warrior Beam w/ 10" towers, 3x3 Author: Kreed , Location: Florida Post Posted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 10:16 PM
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I know it has been a while but I have had many delays in this build process. Here is what I have learned so far:
The 3” Body Lift is very easy to do. Just unbolt the body (2 large bolts by rear upper suspension bump stops, 2 large bolts in the nose, and about 10 or so along each side). I jacked up the body using the jack point on the driver side and using a block of wood under the body by the passenger side door. The hard part is after you get the lift in putting in the new bolts is a real challenge along the sides. Also some silicon on each side of the gaskets will help. Another trick I used was slicing the gasket around the heads of the nails where the factory nailed in the original gasket. Then you can sorta use these to hold the new gasket in place.
The 3x3 trailing arms were easy. Just keep in mind you are going to need to extend the emergency brake cables and the brake lines. You will have to weld up some way of attaching the shocks to the trailing arms. Also the car is basically not moveable until the cage is in at this point because there is nothing to hold up the rear end, that is the job of the coil over shocks now.
You will absolutely need to weld in this build, no way around it.
If you have a ball joint front end, and I do, (I don’t recall at the moment which year they began making them) you will either A. Have to cut off the front end and weld on a link pin front pan, B. Somehow find that bolt on conversion kit that as far as I can tell isn’t being made any more, or C. Get your welder out and make something so you can bolt on the Warrior front beam. Also I put in new disk brakes which require new spindles which no longer operate the speedometer. So now you need to buy an electronic speedometer with a sensor that runs off of the rear cv shaft $$$. Put the bolts in the top shock towers on the new beam before you put the beam in. That way you don’t need to cut holes in the fenders later on to get them in. Something to remember, there is a left and a right spindle as well as caliper bracket, don’t mix them up. Also since I put on the front disk brakes the rotors have a different bolt pattern which means new rims $$$. You will also need new front brakes lines (old ones are too short). Since you probably fabed up something to bolt on the front warrior beam this means you have extended the wheel base which is good, but doing so you have made the support bars that bolt the top of the beam to the fire wall (if the engine were in the front) and the lower support bars that bolt the lower beam to the bolts on the bottom of the car too short. So you will need to extend those bars. I have yet to figure out the alignment of the front wheels and the adjustment of the front spindles.
The rack and pinion set up if you have the ball joint car will need to be modified if you didn’t weld on a link pin front end. This is because it was supposed to be welded to the top beam on the warrior beam and now it won’t work. You need to modify the rack and pinion bracket. I welded mine to the front pan. Also you will need to fab up a new bracket to bolt the 2 nose bolts back down since they didn’t come with my beam and wouldn’t line up if they had.
So this is where I am at. Any advice on adjusting these front spindles would be awesome as the driver side seems really messed up and the passenger side seems right. I haven’t bolted on the tie rods yet so I’m not sure how that is going to works out yet. I will post pictures.



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