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The Phoenix Manx
Tell us about your Project, Were you at in tyour build. Post Pictures etc.
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1engineer
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Post Post subject: The Phoenix Manx
Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2012 11:45 PM
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Here shows the before rear tire angles.



And here is now.



Much better setup for highway driving. Also, had found that the driver's side hub was loose when I did the rear spring adjustment. I had thought it might be a warped rim while watching it at the emissions testing being dynoed.


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Post Post subject: The Phoenix Manx
Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 12:31 AM
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Speedo was toast, so i went Samba'ing and got another. Installed a oil pressure & volt gauge. Still need to install oil temp gauge, maybe even CHT temperature gauge as well. Hooked up the gas gauge in the new tank and it works. Had to bend the float holder, so indexing actual to indicated still needs to be done. Wired the front turn signal lights under the front and have them run under the dash area but not hooked into the electrical circuit yet. Will create a new floor to dash console for additional gauges, stereo, CB, and alarm system. More fiberglass work, can't wait to delve into that again.... here are the 2010 Chevy Cobalt seats installed.


The dash overview.


Here shows the VW Indy mags with the new 165r15's installed. For the rear I think I will go Chevy mags to match the front with adapter as the VW ones seem gold plated going by their prices. Unless of course anyone has extra VW Indy mags to match the front that will accept 31x10.5 15 tires that they can part with. It also shows the rear tire brush guards installed.


And a photo for the newbies reading. Here shows why Baja-ers put bigger tires on for the ground clearance. On the left is about the largest (heightwise) VW stock beetle tire, 165R15. on the right is a 31X10.5R15 tire. You can easily see how I can clear a 4+ inch taller rock without dragging/scraping the engine/transmission/axle just by installing the bigger (taller) tires.


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Post Post subject: The Phoenix Manx
Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 01:08 AM
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And now back to emissions. I did take it into a local shop here. The shop took $200+ and 4 tries later (3 after they did work), it still failed. They advised against changing anything except the main jets. Comments were made about the 40IDC being easier to adjust. Since their work was not successful, I figured their advice was equally valuable. I ordered ALL new jets and air including orifice tubes, installed and it runs much better and cooler. Since I need to see exactly how rich/lean it was running I purchased this www.zeitronix.com/Prod.../zt2.shtml so I could datalog rpm against actual air fuel ratios in real world driving so I can dial in exact needed jet sizes for my engine at the AZ desert altitudes the car is driven & emission tested in.



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Post Post subject: The Phoenix Manx
Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 03:33 AM
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12/09/2012 update on tuning the Chinese knockoffs of the Weber 34 ICTs. I welded O2 sensor bungs on each exhaust side apprx 2 inches downstream of the collectors. Installed O2 sensor (only set up for single sensor readings) on the 1-2 cylinder side. Popped open the carbs and removed the main jet, air jet, and orifice tube and closed the carbs back up. Disconnected the accelerator pump as well. My reasoning is that 80% of street driving is on the low speed circuit, called idle circuit, and is metering fuel through the idle jet. So, if I can isolate the idle circuit from all the others in the carb, properly jetting via a wideband O2 sensor that is reading AFR should allow me to make dead on adjustments to idle jetting.
My carbs for the idle jets have 55's installed (came with 52's and everywhere on the net recommendations were that 55-60 was what is normal baseline). After warmup the AFR ran 10.3-10.7 in second gear running 25ish MPH (remember 31x10.5 15's on the back so not revved very high). That is too much fuel washing off oil on the rings & low MPG. I still had the original 52's, so swapped out with the 55's. With the 52 jets at 25 mph in second gear, AFR is running 11.2-12.3. I need to be high 15's possibly to the 17's if the motor will take it without complaining as that lets the engine run cooler and gas mileage will increase. So, the carbs are still pig rich. Ordered 50, 47.5, and 45 jets. Once they come in will give updates on how the rejetting affects AFR since I know there were a number of people interested in low cost dual carbs or already has them that this may help. As a side note, Chirco's is the only shop that recommended going down in jet size, think it was John? I talked to a few months ago.


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Post Post subject: The Phoenix Manx
Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 04:48 AM
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Meeting Emissions proposed for 1980 cars in the US was why VW decided to abandon the air-cooled Bug in the US. Lack of combustion chamber cooling at very lean AFR required to pass those standards was the prime issue

I think at 15-17 AFR you're gonna have pistons up for sainthood, 'cuz they're gonna be holey.

Oil squirters to the undersides of the piston crowns might help that some. I feel that much leaner than 14:1 is very risky territory in an AC VW engine.

You spoke of collectors on the 2 sides. Are you running Buggy Duals? Because they are SO short relative to other engine's exhaust systems, they tend to read extra fat. Bug exhausts in general are subject to that effect due to short length, but more so with duals.


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Post Post subject: The Phoenix Manx
Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 05:53 AM
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Thanks Richard. Yup running the duals. It kills some HP, didn't know about the richening bit though. For the AFR's I was going off John @ aircooled.net advise on Samba to somebody else a few years ago: "
16:1 cruise is fine. 145 main next. Try to get WOT to 12.75-13:1.

You also might be able to get away with 47.5 idles, even 17:1 is ok as long as the engine doesn't fart or protest. Only way to know is to try it. "

My idea was to set for low workloads at 16-17 AFR and shoot for the mid/upper 12 through mid 13 mains for working the engine as in off road anything beyond 1/3 to 1/2 throttle (coming in at say 24-2500 RPM? just prior the drop off by idle circuit), now you have me questioning that line of thought. I remember flying and manually setting the carb lean/rich while flying. 1.0 lamda was highest temperature exhaust gas temperature wise. Richer or leaner caused the engine to run cooler though power dropped off either way. From an engineering standpoint both are air cooled piston air pumps running explosive fuels to power them via similar designs. 1.0 lamda for gas powered VWs would be 14.7, so hottest temperatures should be at that AFR. Above or below cooler. If you keep leaning the motor out it keeps getting cooler until it flames out and isn't hot enough to support a flame. Same in getting richer, cooler till it won't support a flame. If you work a lean motor it overheats, that is why mains were planned for 12-13's for when the engine is being worked. Light duty, no/little workload was the planned lean range. Let me know what you think... still piston burner setup?


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Post Post subject: Re: The Phoenix Manx
Posted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 06:48 PM
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Just make some runs at various steady rpms and shut the engine off and check the plugs. They won't lie.

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Post Post subject: Re: The Phoenix Manx
Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 07:45 AM
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perrib wrote:
Just make some runs at various steady rpms and shut the engine off and check the plugs. They won't lie.

There are a lot of variables that can enter the equation when testing for AFR adjustment. A modern electronic fuel injection and engine management system looks at most all of those. Cylinder head temp, coolant temp (in multiple zones, but an air cooled engine doesn't have "coolant"), Exhaust gas temp, O2 level in the exhaust gas, speed, gear, throttle position, strain on the engine, rpm, and even a knock sensor. Your engine probably has only the CHT, oil temp, O2 and RPM and you can tell the gear and the speed. But can you document all this data and take it back to where you can sit and re-calculate the AFR?


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Post Post subject: The Phoenix Manx
Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2012 02:44 PM
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Since I am mainly interested in 3 things: durability, driving response, and emissions. I will focus in that direction. Shoot the idles for 14 AFR and 12-13s for the mains. Since I doubt much time will be spent above 4K RPM will focus on making the engine happy below that point. So air jet will be used in conjunction with the orifice tube to make a smooth transition. I am hoping that just the move from 10's AFR to 14 alone will make emissions happy. USPS Shipment tracking shows jets hitting Phoenix this morning, should have tonight or tomorrow to see the results.


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Post Post subject: Re: The Phoenix Manx
Posted: Mon May 26, 2014 05:52 AM
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Hi All. It's been 2 years since AZ emissions frowned upon the buggy. A lot has happened. After failing to pass 4 times, I decided to delve into why it did not pass. Idle passed fine on all tests which is where the weak point is suppose to be for the these carbs. Some fine/close observations detected a "minor" distributor issue on th 09. Timing mark would move erratically while engine RPM remained constant (to me indicates worn out, bearings, sensor etc). Also, oil would become black within miles of changes. The old mechanic in me kept saying "blow by" from rings and/or valves causes that.

I decided to not get a year waiver for registration, but to park and start disassembling engine parts till the problem(s) was found. Off came the carbs, no problems found. Tins were cracked, loose, and not sealing very well. Were the early type. Heads pulled showed definite problems with loose valves in the valve guides, yes, blow by from there. But, the killer was when I looked in the jugs... 1/2 deep oil in the cylinder bores. Yessss, blow by from here as well. Since the case wasn't leaking, oil pressure was excellent, an the rods were not loose, that is as far as I delved.

I tried to solve these problems by getting some new parts. Upgraded the old tins to the "doghouse" style. New oil cooler to match the tins. Of course the new wider cooling fan. New heads from CB Performance. New quality 1600 Mahle jugs and slugs. Since it would be a waste to to not filter what was going into and in the motor, to mitigate this as a quickly recurring problem, I ordered KN air filters for a motorcycle that fit the carbs (got matching dust socks for when the buggy goes playing in the dust). CB Performance was quick to send their oil pump with dual hose fittings. Now have spin on filter attached to the body with braided lines in between to the oil pump. Perrib stated that vac controlled distributor is much better than the 09 dizzy for street and off road, I listened and went that route.

Once all installed and post breakin. Put 5-30 Mobil One with tough guard oil filter. Re-synced the carbs. Set timing to 0 at idle (goes up to 30+ at high RPMs). Passed the AZ Emissions test first time. Timing light is rock steady and oil after apprx 10 hours is clear as glass.

Everything was "by the book" except on the heads I did some port matching and very minor cleanup in the combustion chamber (took 3-4 hours per head) and on the piston skirts used the Dremel with cut-off blade to cut veryyy shallow groves around the piston every couple of inches (supposed to work as oil holders to help insulate the skirt from the cylinder wall, Heard of that one from across the pond where the English used it when racing for durability and a small HP bump). So that is about it. Will post pics later, and actual test results. Ray


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Post Post subject: The Phoenix Manx
Posted: Mon May 26, 2014 09:32 PM
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Congratz!

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Post Post subject: Re: The Phoenix Manx
Posted: Tue May 27, 2014 03:56 AM
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As promised a couple pics. Here are the pistons & cylinders.





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Post Post subject: Re: The Phoenix Manx
Posted: Tue May 27, 2014 04:02 AM
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Went with a hammered copper color on the tins. Also moved from reusing the EMPI aluminum valve covers to original VW style tin covers.





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Post Post subject: Re: The Phoenix Manx
Posted: Tue May 27, 2014 04:10 AM
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Here is the K&N filters I went with. They required some mods to the "cross-bar" bracket for clearance. Since I was crawling around under the back anyway, added some air shocks.





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Post Post subject: Re: The Phoenix Manx
Posted: Tue May 27, 2014 04:33 AM
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I replaced both rubber brake hoses on the back. Replaced the slave cylinders and brake shoes (drum inside looked good, so didn't hone).

Next up will be adding in chevy rear rims and downsizing to 30x9.50x15. I noticed the drivers side rear wheel warped while at DMV on the dyno for emissions testing. The present 31x10.50x15 look nice and run quite well off road even in the deep soft sand, but highway speeds may work the motor and cause overheating issues on the highway. another plus will be that they will be the same size as my jeep's then.

Upgrading the cheap current gauges with new VDO. And have started measuring for building a new fiberglass center console from in front of the shifter off the center console to bottom of the "dash". Can't wait for that itchy fiberglass feeling again.... Ordered a three gauge pod that I may fiberglass into the hood if needed.

That is pretty much it for the present.


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