Im looking into different ways to mount my shocks on the Moldy Japelino.
I trying to do so without having to cut holes in the body or fender wells.
My idea was to run hoops from the end of the horn to the top of the shock tower extending all the way up to the top of the fender wells.

Just wondering if anyone has ideas on this fabrication or any other ideas

search for "project ernest" Daryll put dual rear shocks on it without cutting it up.

If your are still looking ideas here Is my build thread on another site. www.shoptalkforums.com...8&t=136525
It's what I had on my baja for 20 years. I put a Bugzyla lift on and I'm refabing to use the extra 3"

What we did on the Ernest project was run a piece of 1.5" tubing from side to side just behind the back seat area, and welded 1/2 nuts inside of it for the shock mounts. This does require hole sawing a 1.5" hole in each side of the fender well. We then took a 4" square plate and hole sawed the 1.5 hole in and and welded that to the fender well area and the tube running through the body. We also attached the tube running through the body to the rear bumper mounts that came through the firewall with 4 bolt plates and a piece of tubing. Killed 2 birds with one stone.

Pics Daryll?

POCman wrote:

Im looking into different ways to mount my shocks on the Moldy Japelino. I trying to do so without having to cut holes in the body or fender wells. My idea was to run hoops from the end of the horn to the top of the shock tower extending all the way up to the top of the fender wells. Just wondering if anyone has ideas on this fabrication or any other ideas

Bug looks great, also cute kid

I cant wait to get back on the moldy japerlino !!!



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Sittin around today.....heres the idea
Using a peice of round from the bumper stop to the upper well five bolts the fender.
Using the suicide wheel im goin to custom fit the round stock to have a slip fit over the top of the bumper stop.
The top will be capped with a nut welded to the inside and the two bosses will have the same geometry as the stock tower........just extend to the top of the well.
The cap on the tower extention will be use to tie the two towers with a truss bar inside and behind the rear seat.
The existing shock bolt mount will be used for a truss bar aswell over the top of the 002 trans on a 10* pacific custom mount which gives plenty of room between the trans and the luggage well.
An extra piece of round will tie the shock extension half way up to the small gap midway up my frame horn where i plan on mounting a bracket with the extension support to mount up a rear swaybar.
Im thinking that this should tie everything together nicely with only a small hole drilled for the truss bar behind the seat.

Well
I scrapped this idea yesterday.
Goin to shorten a cage for the mounts cause what i want to use for shocks has too much TRavEL.
And running with twins made it just a touch worse for room.
Itll seal!!!!

Did this end up working for you? I'm trying to figure out what path to take on our rear shocks.

I scrapped the IDEA.
Arent you running just 1 in. longer on your build or did you go 3x3 or longer????
My moldy japelino (MJ) is going to be running 3x3 with bus shocks for now.
My cow was running stock trailers with a mess of a build. Torsions are turned way too high for any ride and are on the edge of a BUST.
As far as a mount goes

I opened up my wells

Bent some pipe

Measured and trimmed for heat

Measures the angle for the taller travel

And Ill box the well later.
IM GOIN TO BASE THE JAPELINO off my COW.
Running heater boxes etc.
The only difference between the two will be the shocks and trailing arms.
Im going to work on the same mount base being the same off both coming off the torsion housing and the horn.....just the japelino is going to build a tower off the cow for the taller travel.

Always remember your TA pivot angle.

Thanks for the pics, I ended up going just 1" longer. But I also have to really crank the rear torsions quite a bit to try and match the 3" raised front spindles. Hopefully the new torsions will settle a little after the car is driven. Takes two people to compress them far enough to get the plates off the stops without the engine and body installed.

You could always notch the plates on the bottom.
If youre running with SAW Heavy Duty they are wider than stock.
I ground down the the stop on the torsion housing to bring the axle to about 14 degrees.
With running T2 CVs ill notch the plates after my 29mm torsion bars have taken a set and need indexing.
Im thinking the picture of my boy Jake is after the grind on the stop.
Yep those pics with the new plates are after the grinding of the stop......you can sure see the difference from the stock plates from the hole in the cast tower in that last pic on July 23.

Heres an overhead drawing of the web im thinking about right under the luggage conpartment. Thinking on running the members more with the trailing arm and pivot then with the plates.
That way i dont have to play with angling my bosses to try matching the pivot.
The angle of the supporting member leaves all the drilling square and offsets the shocks for a touch FATTER look from the back.
I might run a fourth member if i can pipe it under.
And between my heat and my drive.

Heres an overhead drawing of the web im thinking about right under the luggage conpartment. Thinking on running the members more with the trailing arm and pivot then with the plates.
That way i dont have to play with angling my bosses to try matching the pivot.
The angle of the supporting member leaves all the drilling square and offsets the shocks for a touch FATTER look from the back.
I might run a fourth member if i can pipe it under.
And between my heat and my drive.

Looks to me that 10 degrees is going to be my
MAGIC Number