Mid Travel Manx - long road ahead

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#1: Mid Travel Manx - long road ahead Author: T_Town_Baja , Location: Tucson, AZ Post Posted: Sat May 07, 2011 05:09 AM
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All,

Finally got my Manx project initiated. I want to build a mid travel 4 seat long body manx. Basically identical to the green Dans Performance Parts Manx.

I picked up a good deal on a roller, with motor minus interior. Its a 1976, IRS rear and BJ front (but I already have two complete LP setups to convert. The body is a 1970's longbody, but in rough shape. I hope I can work the glass and use it - if not I will have to bite the bullet and get one of the newer $2200 bodies (wife will hate me).

Anyone with glass experience, chime in and let me know:








BTW, those ANSEN wheels are for sale, they include good tread 185/70/14 tires.

And of course, here is my end goal:

#2: Mid Travel Manx - long road ahead Author: JWHracing , Location: Mesa Post Posted: Sat May 07, 2011 09:23 AM
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i haven't done that much fiberglass work, just small repairs on my 1 piece front end, but the main thing is that it takes A LOT of time. don't get impatient with it and just know before you start that it's probably going to be the longest and hardest part of the project.

looks like a great start. keep the updates coming. this will be cool to see the finished product

#3: Re: Mid Travel Manx - long road ahead Author: siacs , Location: tucson Post Posted: Sat May 07, 2011 12:16 PM
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I have done some glass work when I was younger. It's not so bad except for the itching. I worked on a 65 vette when I was in training for body and paint work. I will be happy to share what I know Shouldn't take too long Shocked Very Happy

#4: Re: Mid Travel Manx - long road ahead Author: wideopenmotorsports Post Posted: Sun May 08, 2011 07:47 PM
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I have done a lot of fiberglass work and sometimes you just have to decide what you want in the end. If you want the green car, then pony up the $$$ for the new body. You will be happier with your results in the end. No sense in putting a thousand dollar paint job on a two hundred dollar body.

#5: Re: Mid Travel Manx - long road ahead Author: wideopenmotorsports Post Posted: Sun May 08, 2011 09:25 PM
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I have done a lot of fiberglass work and sometimes you just have to decide what you want in the end. If you want the green car, then pony up the $$$ for the new body. You will be happier with your results in the end. No sense in putting a thousand dollar paint job on a two hundred dollar body.

#6: Re: Mid Travel Manx - long road ahead Author: perrib , Location: Chandler Post Posted: Mon May 09, 2011 03:09 AM
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I agree. While baja fiberglass is cheap, the amount of time I spent making cracked and shattered fiberglass on my Baja as good as new was not worth it I had at least 6 hours in each piece. Feathering cracks and laying in mat and glass and then top coat each piece in new resin and glass. No matter how much I rolled the bubbles out it seemed there was always some air bubble that appeared requiring even more work. Even with new parts there is hours of work on the high and low spots of new panels to make them look straight. Another major annoyance were bees who went crazy over the smell of fresh mixed resin.
Here is a link. I did not take many pictures of the glass work but each panel was cracked, pieces missing and the gel coat crazed with stress cracks.

www.azbaja.com/ForumsP...=Baja.html

#7: Re: Mid Travel Manx - long road ahead Author: T_Town_Baja , Location: Tucson, AZ Post Posted: Mon May 09, 2011 03:52 PM
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Thanks for the insight Gents, at this point, after talking with a few friends I think it is best to just get a new body. Not because I don't want to do the glasswork (I actually want to learn), but because I think I will be much happier with a body designed for offroad and long travel. I started looking deeper and once I cut the front fenders to clear the shock hoops, there wont be much glass left to hold the front section. This is one thing the new bodies have, the dash and hood are all integrated into the body, so that its much stronger up front.

I thought, well I could just glass the hood into the front fenders and that would be really nice, but I think I'm nearing 100's of hours of glasswork to get this body where I want it.

So, I will be selling this body to someone who wants a 70's body and start pinching my pennies for a new body from DansPerformance.

I have plenty to work on in the meantime, I picked up two complete LP beams that I will be used for the LP conversion - need to remove the framehead and start all that. I can prep the pan as well while I save up.

I pulled the motor this weekend and its not completely seized, tt rotates but hangs up when 1 cylinder reaches TDC, so either a bent valve or something dropped into the cylinder - Ill be tearing that down this weekend.

More updates to come.

#8: Re: Mid Travel Manx - long road ahead Author: T_Town_Baja , Location: Tucson, AZ Post Posted: Thu May 19, 2011 07:30 AM
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Started pulling everything apart today. Separated the body from pan, pulled the lift kit so I can sell the body and lift kit.

I also tore down the motor to see why it was binding up, and it looks like it did get water into the heads, looks like valves were closed based on the jugs being clean, but not sure if I should slap a set of jugs/pistons and heads on or just go ahead and go through the whole motor.

Anyway, as it sits now, Im hoping to sell the body off and get most of my extra parts sold so that I can start putting the suspension together. The plan is to prep/clean the chassis and get it coated. Then move on to suspension components - planning to build my own beam +6, running Bugzyla 2.5 Arms and 3x3's in the rear. Hoping to get 14" all the way around. Most likely going to push the front beam forward 6 inches as well like I did on the Baja, but wont be able to do that until I pony up for the FRP Body.

Pics:





#9: Re: Mid Travel Manx - long road ahead Author: T_Town_Baja , Location: Tucson, AZ Post Posted: Fri May 20, 2011 06:46 AM
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Tore down the motor the rest of the way tonight. Overall it was in great shape, BUT someone let it sit and get water inside one of the cylinders - of course!

So it looks like a rebuild is in order, but curious whether I should just slap some pistons/jugs and have the heads rebuilt. The shortblock is smooth and no play, but I have no idea on mileage or condition. I guess I will cross that road later.

I had a thought today about the body, I currently have it up for sale and planned on purchasing a new complete body from FRP, but I saw the cheaper "body ring" version they sell:


Basically its just the upper ring, and the sides are crafted in aluminum or whatever you want. This got me thinking, maybe I should just save the $2400 for a new body and cut the one I have. I could buy a new hood and glass it in completely up front, cut out the lower half of the body and end up with just an upper ring.

This is an idea, not my current plan, but a good thought. Still a lot of work to go that route.

Blaine

#10: Re: Mid Travel Manx - long road ahead Author: siacs , Location: tucson Post Posted: Fri May 20, 2011 01:24 PM
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That's not a bad idea. It never surprises me about all of the options we have building these VW's.

#11: Re: Mid Travel Manx - long road ahead Author: T_Town_Baja , Location: Tucson, AZ Post Posted: Sat May 21, 2011 04:04 AM
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Ya, Im going to focus on the suspension for now, prepping the pan and tranny, building the beam etc. Ill make that decision towards the end of the summer.

Im searching for a bunch of parts so it might be a while. Smile

Wanna sell me some of that motor stuff back - LOL

Blaine

#12: Re: Mid Travel Manx - long road ahead Author: T_Town_Baja , Location: Tucson, AZ Post Posted: Sun May 22, 2011 07:18 PM
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Sold the body this morning. Now down to just the bare pan and drivetrain. Hoping to sell the wheels soon, that will give me some cash for parts.

Might be working some deals with Joe at Chirco, he wants some of the parts im selling and would give me store credit Smile Might work out better that way. Need to focus on obtaining a set of 2.5" longer front LP arms and a set of 3x3's.

Im going to build a new beam this week (+6) no towers and start coating the pan.

#13: Re: Mid Travel Manx - long road ahead Author: perrib , Location: Chandler Post Posted: Sun May 22, 2011 07:35 PM
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That picture of the rail with the drop over Manx top looks like the way to go. As for the engine build a 1915 or a mild 2275 stoker. Keep the cam in the W 100-W110 duration and you have lots of bottom end torque to move the weight of the cage and upgraded suspension.

#14: Re: Mid Travel Manx - long road ahead Author: MojaveRacer208 , Location: Lake LA - SoCal Mojave Desert Post Posted: Wed May 25, 2011 06:10 AM
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perrib wrote:
That picture of the rail with the drop over Manx top looks like the way to go. As for the engine build a 1915 or a mild 2275 stoker. Keep the cam in the W 100-W110 duration and you have lots of bottom end torque to move the weight of the cage and upgraded suspension.

I'm backing Perrib on this one. 2110 is another engine size which should work nicely. Good torque.

#15: Re: Mid Travel Manx - long road ahead Author: T_Town_Baja , Location: Tucson, AZ Post Posted: Wed May 25, 2011 04:28 PM
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I'm not set on motor yet, but there is a pretty large price difference between a 1915 cookie cutter and a stroker motor. Unless I get a smoking deal on a crank/case combo, I doubt I will go the stroked route.

How much of a weight comparison do you think a fully tubular Manx would have in comparison to a fully tubular baja? When I had my baja (fully caged/tubular chassis) I had an 1835 single weber and a 1600, cammed, dual weber 40's that I ran in it over the years, both were strong and never really had any complaints. I would guess the baja weighed more than a Manx, am I wrong?

On a side note, I should be starting my beam this weekend. Feels great to finally be able to break out the welder and fab tools again Very Happy

Blaine



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