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Baja Forums -:- VW Volkswagen Bug, Baja, Bus, Sandrail and Thing -:- VW Volkswagen & Baja Bug General Discussion -:- BODY REMOVAL '66 BAJA (HELP!)
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BODY REMOVAL '66 BAJA (HELP!)
Bug, Baja, Thing and Buggies. Most every thing that will not fit any any other area. See list of other Forums for better topic placement...Volkswagen General Discussion
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ClassZero
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Post Post subject: BODY REMOVAL '66 BAJA (HELP!)
Posted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 08:28 PM
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Hi Guys. Newbie here to this forum. I'm hoping one you more experienced forum members can give me some guidance on how to remove the body from my'66 Baja Bug. As you'll see from the photo below, the interior floorpans have major rust...and that's just what's ON TOP of the carpet. Underneath the carpet, it's just a mess. Rather than replace part of the floor pan, I'm going for complete replacement. While the body is off the car I will address any other areas needing attention.

There are numerous videos on body removal on Youtube, Bug Me, etc...however they all pertain to standard Beetles and not Baja bugs which do not have front and rear aprons.

I'm hoping someone here can provide me some guidance or a link to a website or video showing how it's done. I would love to use the saw horse and floor jack trick, but without aprons, I don't know how this is possible.

Thanks for your help!





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Last edited by ClassZero on Tue Sep 03, 2013 09:43 PM; edited 4 time in total
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Dalton
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Post Post subject: BODY REMOVAL '66 BAJA (HELP!)
Posted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 01:45 AM
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Well it's been three days since you posted your question and no one with more experience than me has replied...

I've only had the body removed from the floor pan on a vehicle that I've owned 30 years ago and I use that as a pan buggy..

But here's what I've heard..
Don't use air tools on the bolts that hold the body onto the pan if the rusted on the inside you will snap to head off or strip the threads out of the body.. Work them out with the socket wrench slowly, use the products on the market that loosens stock nuts and bolts don't be afraid to use the torch to heat up the area you're going to replace the gasket anyway.. By yourself the tap the clean up the threads once you have the body off the pan.. Clean up the threads on the old bolts .. Replace any bolts that are damaged.. I think the body comes off the pan fairly easy and is light enough that you can get inside the car with a pillow on your back and lift it off the pan and walk off with it.. There are two bolts the bolt the body to the front beam don't forget about those because of you don't take them out and lift the body off you will been the tabs.. To start taking out bolts and try lift in the body off by using your back in standing in the middle of the car I don't think that there's any hidden bolts that you need to worry about.. You can buy replacement floor pan's... A lot of people drill out the welds and then weld them back up when the new pans are in place.. I've seen it done many times... There wasn't too much swearing so I guess it's easy... I do know that the weld on the new pans for some reason it's easier to flip the pan upside down the weld on it... I'm kind of a good welder so I just weld upside down.. You and a couple your buddies will be able to easily lift the body onto the sawhorses..

I hope this helped you..

If you do break a bolt off or blow the threads out in the body just by yourself the next size bigger Doesn't matter whether or not it's American or metric you not building a show car.. Just drill and tap it out to the next size bigger bolts, it will be fine..

Also I would suggest that you buy the pans before hand this will give you a better idea of where the bolts are even better if you bought the gasket then it would show you were all the holes are..


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s1053.photobucket.com/...%20project




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ClassZero
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Post Post subject: Re: BODY REMOVAL '66 BAJA (HELP!)
Posted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 02:18 AM
Reply with quote

Good suggestions Dalton. Thanks. Especially the part about heating up the bolts prior to removal should they be stubborn to get out. I will apply liquid wrench liberally to also help with the process. I really hate the idea of replacing the pans, but it has to be done.

I'm going to build saw horses to put the body on and probably recruit 4 guys to help me lift the body off the car and set it on the saw horses. While I'm envious of Beetle owners who have front and rear aprons who make Youtube videos showing how to remove a body from the chassis with only 1 person in 10 minutes with nothing more than saw horses and a floorjack, I think I should be able to manage the job fairly easy. Famous last words, right?

While I'm working on the pans, I'm going to send the body off to have the body work handled. I'm going to handle that in phases. Phase 1 will be rust remediation. Phase 2 will be general bodywork and primer. Phase 3 will be paint.

Dalton wrote:
Well it's been three days since you posted your question and no one with more experience than me has replied...

I've only had the body removed from the floor pan on a vehicle that I've owned 30 years ago and I use that as a pan buggy..

But here's what I've heard..
Don't use air tools on the bolts that hold the body onto the pan if the rusted on the inside you will snap to head off or strip the threads out of the body.. Work them out with the socket wrench slowly, use the products on the market that loosens stock nuts and bolts don't be afraid to use the torch to heat up the area you're going to replace the gasket anyway.. By yourself the tap the clean up the threads once you have the body off the pan.. Clean up the threads on the old bolts .. Replace any bolts that are damaged.. I think the body comes off the pan fairly easy and is light enough that you can get inside the car with a pillow on your back and lift it off the pan and walk off with it.. There are two bolts the bolt the body to the front beam don't forget about those because of you don't take them out and lift the body off you will been the tabs.. To start taking out bolts and try lift in the body off by using your back in standing in the middle of the car I don't think that there's any hidden bolts that you need to worry about.. You can buy replacement floor pan's... A lot of people drill out the welds and then weld them back up when the new pans are in place.. I've seen it done many times... There wasn't too much swearing so I guess it's easy... I do know that the weld on the new pans for some reason it's easier to flip the pan upside down the weld on it... I'm kind of a good welder so I just weld upside down.. You and a couple your buddies will be able to easily lift the body onto the sawhorses..

I hope this helped you..

If you do break a bolt off or blow the threads out in the body just by yourself the next size bigger Doesn't matter whether or not it's American or metric you not building a show car.. Just drill and tap it out to the next size bigger bolts, it will be fine..

Also I would suggest that you buy the pans before hand this will give you a better idea of where the bolts are even better if you bought the gasket then it would show you were all the holes are..


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Dalton
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Post Post subject: Re: BODY REMOVAL '66 BAJA (HELP!)
Posted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 03:20 AM
Reply with quote

ClassZero wrote:
Good suggestions Dalton. Thanks. Especially the part about heating up the bolts prior to removal should they be stubborn to get out. I will apply liquid wrench liberally to also help with the process. I really hate the idea of replacing the pans, but it has to be done.

I'm going to build saw horses to put the body on and probably recruit 4 guys to help me lift the body off the car and set it on the saw horses. While I'm envious of Beetle owners who have front and rear aprons who make Youtube videos showing how to remove a body from the chassis with only 1 person in 10 minutes with nothing more than saw horses and a floorjack, I think I should be able to manage the job fairly easy. Famous last words, right?

While I'm working on the pans, I'm going to send the body off to have the body work handled. I'm going to handle that in phases. Phase 1 will be rust remediation. Phase 2 will be general bodywork and primer. Phase 3 will be paint.

Dalton wrote:
Well it's been three days since you posted your question and no one with more experience than me has replied...

I've only had the body removed from the floor pan on a vehicle that I've owned 30 years ago and I use that as a pan buggy..

But here's what I've heard..
Don't use air tools on the bolts that hold the body onto the pan if the rusted on the inside you will snap to head off or strip the threads out of the body.. Work them out with the socket wrench slowly, use the products on the market that loosens stock nuts and bolts don't be afraid to use the torch to heat up the area you're going to replace the gasket anyway.. By yourself the tap the clean up the threads once you have the body off the pan.. Clean up the threads on the old bolts .. Replace any bolts that are damaged.. I think the body comes off the pan fairly easy and is light enough that you can get inside the car with a pillow on your back and lift it off the pan and walk off with it.. There are two bolts the bolt the body to the front beam don't forget about those because of you don't take them out and lift the body off you will been the tabs.. To start taking out bolts and try lift in the body off by using your back in standing in the middle of the car I don't think that there's any hidden bolts that you need to worry about.. You can buy replacement floor pan's... A lot of people drill out the welds and then weld them back up when the new pans are in place.. I've seen it done many times... There wasn't too much swearing so I guess it's easy... I do know that the weld on the new pans for some reason it's easier to flip the pan upside down the weld on it... I'm kind of a good welder so I just weld upside down.. You and a couple your buddies will be able to easily lift the body onto the sawhorses..

I hope this helped you..

If you do break a bolt off or blow the threads out in the body just by yourself the next size bigger Doesn't matter whether or not it's American or metric you not building a show car.. Just drill and tap it out to the next size bigger bolts, it will be fine..

Also I would suggest that you buy the pans before hand this will give you a better idea of where the bolts are even better if you bought the gasket then it would show you were all the holes are..




one last suggestion that may help you out... By the replacement parts before you disassembled the vehicle that way you don't have everything apart in getting lost before you're ready to do the repair or replacement


_________________
Click here to see more photos of My 69 Baja project:


s1053.photobucket.com/...%20project




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ClassZero
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Post Post subject: Re: BODY REMOVAL '66 BAJA (HELP!)
Posted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 02:38 PM
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Good point. I'm going to order the pans from Wolfsburg West. In speaking with a mechanic yesterday, those are the only pans he recommends as they have tighter quality control and they utilize the same 18 gauge steel as original.

Now that my mind is settled on floorpan replacement, I'm thinking of other areas underneath the body that I should address before the body goes back on. I'm pulling the engine and tranny to better assess the chassis. At this point I'm thinking about having the entire chassis sandblasted, then painted with POR15 to protect it from rust. Once the pans go back on, I will be undercoating everything with a thicker (bed liner) type product. I guess the mission at this point would be to Preserve & Protect.

I have a feeling this project is going to take a lot longer than I originally planned. I'm going to give myself a goal of having the car rebuilt and on the road again by next summer (2014). We will just have to wait and see how that turns out.

Dalton wrote:
ClassZero wrote:
Good suggestions Dalton. Thanks. Especially the part about heating up the bolts prior to removal should they be stubborn to get out. I will apply liquid wrench liberally to also help with the process. I really hate the idea of replacing the pans, but it has to be done.

I'm going to build saw horses to put the body on and probably recruit 4 guys to help me lift the body off the car and set it on the saw horses. While I'm envious of Beetle owners who have front and rear aprons who make Youtube videos showing how to remove a body from the chassis with only 1 person in 10 minutes with nothing more than saw horses and a floorjack, I think I should be able to manage the job fairly easy. Famous last words, right?

While I'm working on the pans, I'm going to send the body off to have the body work handled. I'm going to handle that in phases. Phase 1 will be rust remediation. Phase 2 will be general bodywork and primer. Phase 3 will be paint.

Dalton wrote:
Well it's been three days since you posted your question and no one with more experience than me has replied...

I've only had the body removed from the floor pan on a vehicle that I've owned 30 years ago and I use that as a pan buggy..

But here's what I've heard..
Don't use air tools on the bolts that hold the body onto the pan if the rusted on the inside you will snap to head off or strip the threads out of the body.. Work them out with the socket wrench slowly, use the products on the market that loosens stock nuts and bolts don't be afraid to use the torch to heat up the area you're going to replace the gasket anyway.. By yourself the tap the clean up the threads once you have the body off the pan.. Clean up the threads on the old bolts .. Replace any bolts that are damaged.. I think the body comes off the pan fairly easy and is light enough that you can get inside the car with a pillow on your back and lift it off the pan and walk off with it.. There are two bolts the bolt the body to the front beam don't forget about those because of you don't take them out and lift the body off you will been the tabs.. To start taking out bolts and try lift in the body off by using your back in standing in the middle of the car I don't think that there's any hidden bolts that you need to worry about.. You can buy replacement floor pan's... A lot of people drill out the welds and then weld them back up when the new pans are in place.. I've seen it done many times... There wasn't too much swearing so I guess it's easy... I do know that the weld on the new pans for some reason it's easier to flip the pan upside down the weld on it... I'm kind of a good welder so I just weld upside down.. You and a couple your buddies will be able to easily lift the body onto the sawhorses..

I hope this helped you..

If you do break a bolt off or blow the threads out in the body just by yourself the next size bigger Doesn't matter whether or not it's American or metric you not building a show car.. Just drill and tap it out to the next size bigger bolts, it will be fine..

Also I would suggest that you buy the pans before hand this will give you a better idea of where the bolts are even better if you bought the gasket then it would show you were all the holes are..




one last suggestion that may help you out... By the replacement parts before you disassembled the vehicle that way you don't have everything apart in getting lost before you're ready to do the repair or replacement


_________________
\'66 Baja Bug, aka. The Rolling Turd
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Post Post subject: BODY REMOVAL '66 BAJA (HELP!)
Posted: Sat Sep 07, 2013 05:08 PM
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Well..it's finally the weekend, so I want to see how much I can get accomplished on the Baja Bug. I need to pull the front right wheel off the car since I lost the tire bead to the rim. Once that's taken care of I will be able to roll the turd out of my garage so I can work on it some more.

Last week, I removed the mirrors, some of the fiberglass pieces, the headliner, carpet, door panels, a carpeted rear passenger seat area deck made out of wood, miscellaneous parts....oh, and a dead bird. That's right a dead bird! It's anybody's guess how long it had been inside the car or how it got in with the doors closed and windows rolled up, my guess is through the open heat exchanger; either way, I was just relieved to know that it didn't smell. Ewww...gross!

Today I want to focus on continuing to dismantle the interior, fenders and nose piece. I will be sending the fiberglass off to have some work done so it can be prepped for painting. Depending on how much I can get accomplished, if there's still time, I will start preparing for the engine pull.


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