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Baja Forums -:- AzBaja.com Members -:- Projects and Builds -:- 73 build - Spanky57
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73 build - Spanky57
Tell us about your Project, Were you at in tyour build. Post Pictures etc.
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spanky57
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Post Post subject: 73 build - Spanky57
Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 04:39 AM
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OK, I'm going to start a build page to document my progress, ask questions, and get constructive criticism. My build is going to be a slow process, because I work 2 jobs, and have no garage/shop to work in. Here's a couple photos of it:

This is how it looked when I got it, and here it is today:

I've got pans ordered should be here the end of this week. My plans are to install the pan halves, then redo the front and rear suspension and brakes. I hope to have the body back on by the end of October, then install a wide eye kit. I'm going to keep it basically stock as far as the suspension, with a cut and turn up front, and reindexing the rear torsion arms. The motor that was in the car was full of water, so I don't know what, if anything will be reusable.
That's where I am now, will do my best to document everything as I go.
Thanks, Mike

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Conundrum
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Post Post subject: 73 build - Spanky57
Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 05:41 AM
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Cool, that took a lot of work just to get that far! A little bit each day and you'll be there. Smile


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Post Post subject: Re: 73 build - Spanky57
Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 04:23 PM
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You have been busy. Good luck.

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Post Post subject: 73 build - Spanky57
Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 12:30 AM
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Looks like you got a good start going. Just keep going and it will all come together a little at a time. Keep us updated Smile

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spanky57
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Post Post subject: Re: 73 build - Spanky57
Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 12:37 AM
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Thanks guys!
I have a couple questions if anybody has time to help:
How does this rear arm pivot come out? It has a hex, but it's also been peened into a groove. Here's a pic of what I'm talking about:

The bushings look pretty bad, and I'd like to replace them, and clean everything up real good.
Next question is about the front beam adjusters. Do these look like they are adjusted all the way up? The screws are at the limit of their adjustment, and the front end still sits way too low for me. Would I better off ditching the adjusters altogether?

Oh, and I do have the Dune buggy and Baja book on the way.
Thanks in advance, Mike.

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Post Post subject: 73 build - Spanky57
Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 12:50 AM
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hi the beam looks as though the adjusters were installed to lower the bug instead of raising it. you could either ditch this beam for one that is right for you or cut those back out and correct their angle. Cutting those out and correcting there angle is thhe cheapest and not too hard. As far as the back the allen bolt is the way they come out the peening was volkswagons lock. A big ass cheater will get it off. use lots of penitrating oil. try to squirt the inside of the bolt in the frame horns. you do not want to gull those threads. That will be a huge problem.

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Post Post subject: Re: 73 build - Spanky57
Posted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 03:54 PM
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Let that allen bolt soak in repeated applications of penetrating oil for several days. It should come out like butter. Don't worry about the peened metal it will roll round as soon as you take the bolt out. Just cut out the adjusters and relocate them.

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spanky57
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Post Post subject: Re: 73 build - Spanky57
Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 01:05 AM
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I wish I could see a picture with the correct orientation of the grub screw. I have no idea how much to turn the adjusters when I cut them out. I know too much is a bad thing, but I'm not sure how much would be enough......
Also, when cutting, should I cut the existing weld or make a new cut beside it?
Oh, and I also found a local source for PB Blaster, so I'll soak the heck outta the rear torsion arm pivot screws this weekend.
Thanks, Mike

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Post Post subject: Re: 73 build - Spanky57
Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 12:22 PM
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I'm told that 1/8" will make a huge differance so I bet you will rotate it less than 1/4"
Cut next to the weld. Cutting though the weld is alot harder.

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Post Post subject: Re: 73 build - Spanky57
Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2012 06:13 PM
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If you have access to a portable band saw, I'd use that & cut through the weld. I wouldn't want two welds close to each other on my front suspension (that & you can eliminate a weld that someone else did & you have no idea how good the quality of it is). If you can get rid of the other weld, you can eliminate a big source of weld contamination. If you clean up the beam really well of rust & grease, your welds should turn out great.

Using a portaband, your cut will be much straighter than using a cutoff wheel.

Porta Band

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spanky57
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Post Post subject: 73 build - Spanky57
Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2012 04:13 AM
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Thanks for the responses, guys. I can see both points in cutting the weld, or the beam.
I'm going to try and swap this beam for one without the adjusters first. Another question (I have tons) concerns pulling the rear suspension parts. If I get a reference angle on the spring plates with no pre load, it shouldn't hurt to just pull both sides apart (torsion bars included) while I work on the pan? I know the bars need to be installed back into the same side they were in.I'd like to get the pan as light as possible since I'll be handling it by myself, and will have to take it to a welder shop to get the pans welded in.
Thanks yet again, mike

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Rigger
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Post Post subject: 73 build - Spanky57
Posted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 06:24 AM
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Dont be scared it is pretty easy you can also clock one tooth down on the out side to give you a bit more ground clearance. If you can find an early set of spring plates and torsions it will give you a better spring rate for off road because they are shorter and give you better tire clearance with the torsions that do not stick out of torsion caps. the spline on in in side is larger tooth so try to make sure to get the exact the same angle. the torsions are also marked right and left. be very careful. i use a chain bolted to the upper shock mount and wrapped under a floor jack to get the spring plate seated. more pics

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spanky57
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Post Post subject: Re: 73 build - Spanky57
Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 01:20 AM
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Thanks for the response Rigger.
I havent been able to do much lately, been working 2 jobs to try and get some $$$ together for parts. I did get a chance to throw together a wooden rotisserie for the pan, be much nicer than sitting on the ground! I got my floor pans delivered, also both lower rear quarter patch panels, along with a front repair section of heater channel for the drivers side, and the parts to rebuild my pedal assembly. I'll post some more pics when i get a chance to start working on it again (hopefully this weekend)

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Post Post subject: 73 build - Spanky57
Posted: Sat Nov 03, 2012 03:29 AM
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Been a while, too long! Seems like the weather turns against me almost every weekend. Sucks working outside, but oh well.
I did find a guy to trade my beam with adjusters welded for lowering for an uncut beam, and a set of adjusters to boot. I've got the beam stripped down and cut for the bottom adjuster, hopefully get that welded in next week at work. I also got the rear suspension pulled off. Today after work I found time to remove the drivers floor pan.....Man do I hate spot welds right about now.

Looks like decent weather for tomorrow, hopefully I'll get the passenger floor cut out, clean up the tunnel, and test fit the new pans. I ended up using the Harbor Freight spotweld cutter, and it really surprised me! I bought two that are double ended, hoping between the four cutters I'd get the pans out. I cant even tell the one i started with had any wear, the 70th cut was just as good as the first.
Next on the to-do after getting the pans welded will be to clean and paint the pan and replace the front and rear bushings, replace ball joints and tie rods. Then new bearings, and hopefully have a rolling pan again.
I am so ready to drive this thing!
Thanks for looking, Mike

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spanky57
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Post Post subject: 73 build - Spanky57
Posted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 04:12 AM
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OK, I got all the welds cleaned up ready for the new pans, and when I flipped the pan over I came across this:

Everything else on the bottom is solid, looks like these two were the low spots
where any moisture would puddle.
Question is: Think it'd be okay to just cut new patches and weld them in, or should I go for a new panel? I did use a sharp punch with a hammer to see if there were any more spots I couldn't see. Sometime in the next day or so, I'll pull the frame off the stand, so I can open the front access plate and visually inspect the area.
Thoughts, anyone?
Thanks, Mike

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