Saturday. Got my motor all ready to start, plugs gapped and everything, and put some starter fluid in the dual carbs that are running of vaccuum lines. And then bam, it started right up, ran it, this is a rebuilt 1915 first start, the oil cooler is leaking, thats the only place i can guess oil would be coming from that was above the cylinders. I have a flat tire so didn't drive it, but i backed it back into the garage on it's on power after we got done.

Found a pair of '72 front seats to use as daily drivers until the Corbeau's are bought. They'll need work; a full stripout, soda blast, and then rebuild, but what do you want for $30.00?

Dave

Found a few things that could have been causing all of my troubles. First off, I needed a new coil, badly. Then some ignition piece inside of my distributor was loose and rattling around. And I think I know why it acts like it's getting no gas after running for awhile..the kid that owned it before has a copper tube connecting the fuel line from where it comes out of the frame to the fuel filter, and it's sitting directly over one of the exhaust pipes. I think that pipe is heating up and evaporating the gas in the line

Wired the lights in Project Willy, and started grinding down the booger welds on Project Cheap Purple.

Replaced master cylinder switches, and drove it on the freeway for the first time! Definitely more of a comfortable surface street cruiser than freeway car.

Well today a bought a decent used Baja body kit for my bug. Not bad for just starting my build. Had everything but the lower front peice under the hood. And I got it for $50. So I say not to bad myself...

I was looking for used front wheels so I can run the 31x10.5 r15 tires all the way on the rail, I found new one really cheap at http://www.streetsideauto.com/

The story is while searching online for cheap wheels through google, i cam across their site. They had no pictures or detailed info about the wheels just Cragar BLACK PAINTED 15X8 5X4.75 , Part No. 31158343.

I call Cragar to figure what they are and come to find out they haven’t sold these wheels since 99’. I find out they are perfect 2x with 3" back space and the other 2 at 4". So i will give my rail a much wider stance and even more turning radius than i have now especially with the wheel adaptor that i am buying for the front wheels and already have for the rears. They have been sitting at a auto whole warehouse place brand new for at least 12yrs. Back in 99’ they ran $60.25 each plus shipping! I got 4 of these for $137 with shipping, nice part it they are a strong but light steel only 19lbs so similar to a alloy wheel weight. I paid a third of what I would have and I was able to get a great light wheel that will really make the buggy look sharp!

They are 2-3 shipping and I should have them tomorrow.

Traded batteries (12 mo. old battery already died) then got her 30+ year old car inspection for NC. They want to verify VIN# and motor serial numbers here before you get a title. Then drove her around Wilkes all day Friday and part of Saturday.

Broke the bolts on the springplate coming off a jump

Bummer

I heard Florida has bolt worm problems this time of year.

I trashed a T-bar and it looked about the same, but was still a little springgy. But I know the look. Walk around and think what in the world, How did that happen, Like you realy do not know.

FLBaja wrote:

Broke the bolts on the springplate coming off a jump

Balanced the crank and rods and got the rest of my parts. Got the block assembled and cleaned/detailed the firewall and suspension while it was open to be cleaned....

Finally installed my Pertronix Ignitor kit. No real noticeable improvement but I only drove it 10 miles. Seemed peppier on the throttle for that short distance.

jumped mine and broke driver side cv axel the parts that bolts to the tranny the bearings are all inside the boot and demolished find out the damages tommorow