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Baja Forums -:- AzBaja.com Members -:- Projects and Builds -:- chrispy56's 64
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chrispy56's 64
Tell us about your Project, Were you at in tyour build. Post Pictures etc.
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The following users give thanks for this topic Anonymous - Sun Mar 01, 2009 09:04 PM
chrispy56
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Post Post subject: chrispy56's 64
Posted: Sun May 31, 2009 07:41 PM
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finished r&p mounting





bought a 79 bus for $200





removed the 091 transaxle from bus, then sold bus for $200





removed the type 1 engine/trans from baja





installed 091 trans in baja








currently working on shifter/box/linkage and occasional body work

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chrispy56
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Post Post subject: chrispy56's 64
Posted: Sun May 31, 2009 08:00 PM
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found some old pictures of the baja when i first bought it






Last edited by chrispy56 on Fri Jan 30, 2015 06:00 PM; edited 1 times in total
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Mykul
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Post Post subject: Re: chrispy56's 64
Posted: Sun May 31, 2009 10:51 PM
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Very cool!

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Mykul
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Post Post subject: Re: chrispy56's 64
Posted: Sun May 31, 2009 10:52 PM
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Very cool!

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chrispy56
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Post Post subject: chrispy56's 64
Posted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 05:10 AM
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found a one piece front locally. i got it cheap but it needs work



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chrispy56
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Post Post subject: chrispy56's 64
Posted: Fri Mar 18, 2011 05:58 PM
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new 4x5s and 930 stubs





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MojaveRacer208
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Post Post subject: chrispy56's 64
Posted: Sat Mar 19, 2011 03:44 AM
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Have you ever driven the bug since the rack & pinion installation? I expect serious bump steer issues with the rack mounted that low. If you do a little research, you'll find the conventional wisdom is to mount the rack above the top beam tube and NOT with the tie rods parallel to the ground at ride height. i don't know where you go the idea that was necessary. The trailing arms are not likely to be parallel to the ground at ride height with the car set up for offroad use, and the tie rods should be more parallel to them than to the ground. Mounting the rack so far back will cause the tie rods to get longer as the pass level and shorter as they raise up or lower down with suspension cycling. With the rack installed as most others do it, one can achieve near zero bump steer. As it is, any change in ride height, whether bump or droop, will cause toe out.

A little bit of clearance in the top of the frame head would have been good. But since your cage does not fully support the beam, you now have a very weak chassis. You did decent fab work to install the rack that way, but I feel it is way wrong how you've done it. The tie rods will have clearance issues just in the channel at droop, not to mention that you can't add lower braces from the cage to the bottom beam tubes. Even more weakness.

Try this mount.
www.sacoperformance.co...od=60-1940
Its only $18 and welds on the top beam tube near the adjusters.


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Richard
A.R.T.S. Off Road Race Tech Inspection
M.O.R.E. / MDR
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 Fri May 02, 2008 11:06 PM 
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