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Baja Forums -:- AzBaja.com Members -:- Projects and Builds -:- Zacks first bug
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Zacks first bug
Tell us about your Project, Were you at in tyour build. Post Pictures etc.
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b00mb00m
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Post Post subject: Zacks first bug
Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 03:36 AM
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After a couple months of searching I finally found a baja. I want to thank everyone who said to wait for what im looking for and not to buy the first thing i see.

Its a 1962. The guy I bought it from said he was driving it last november and it just died. He put fuel in the carb and it runs fine. Once we put it on the trailer looked in the fuel tank and it was bone dry Rolling Eyes . Hoping its just out of fuel. The cage for the engine wasnt even bolted in I pulled it right out. The tin for the fan has two nerf balls blocking air flow. Im not sure where they go. Maybe over the cylinder heads? I'll have to do some more research and the taillights work but no brake lights. I'll post pics up tomorrow.

Im so excited I dont think i'll be able to sleep tonight. Is that normal Shocked

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danjones333
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Post Post subject: Zacks first bug
Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 04:14 AM
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its normal when i got mine i couldnt sleep for like 2 or 3 days.
ask any questions you haev someone on here will be able to answer it im sure i have asked my questions on this site and gotten a straight answer.


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az350x
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Post Post subject: Zacks first bug
Posted: Tue May 12, 2009 11:29 PM
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Yes- sleepless nights can be normal at the onset of this illness.

If I understand you correctly- you're saying that the two outlets coming off of the fan shroud (attached to the engine, right?) have balls stuck in them? You SHOULD have two matching outlets coming out of the car's body by the front end of the trans/under the rear seat. A flexible hose connects them, and those are for the heat/defrost inside your car.

Let's see some pics!


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I used to think only about 98% of the population were worthless douchebags. I'm thinking lately of revising my estimate...

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Post Post subject: Re: Zacks first bug
Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 12:10 AM
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I believe it a 1600 dp motor. Put fuel in the tank it will start up but you have to keep on the gas to keep it running took the carb apart cleaned it out it didnt help. If I hold the choke closed it will idle just fine. Im thinking I need a new carb? If I stay with single carb what would work best. I've also been thinking about dual carbs what would be my best option there? Rear brakes line is unhooked at master cylinder so I have no back brakes will be redoing brakes at all four corners.

Those tubes under the motor look like they have been hit by a rock or something how do I go about replacing those? Finally after putting fuel in the gas tank i looked under the car and gas is leaking all over the place. The clamp on the fuel line was loose. It was still leaking so we pulled the fuel tank and someone put jb weld in about 7 spots Shocked it was leaking like crazy. I was gonna wait to relocate fuel tank to rear of car. Looks like i'll be doing it sooner than later.

Pics are coming later tonight I promise.

Zack

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Post Post subject: Zacks first bug
Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 12:19 AM
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sounds like you need to do a rebuild on the carb before you go buying a new carb.
replacing all the gas lines will help. take out the tank make sure there are no holes in the tank and what not
then you should be running good
o
and tune the carb will help you idle better


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Post Post subject: Re: Zacks first bug
Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 12:58 AM
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b00mb00m wrote:
Those tubes under the motor look like they have been hit by a rock or something how do I go about replacing those? Finally after putting fuel in the gas tank i looked under the car and gas is leaking all over the place. The clamp on the fuel line was loose. It was still leaking so we pulled the fuel tank and someone put jb weld in about 7 spots Shocked it was leaking like crazy. I was gonna wait to relocate fuel tank to rear of car. Looks like i'll be doing it sooner than later.

Pics are coming later tonight I promise.

Zack

Four tubes under the motor on each side, pointing sideways, right? Those are your pushrod tubes. You'll need to pop valve covers, loosen rockers, remove pushrods, and I believe loosen the cylinder heads to replace those. Good time to tackle a fresh valve adjustment while you're at it (you'll have to for reassembly anyway).

Sounds like the car's a basketcase. Do yourself a HUGE favor and replace ALL rubber fuel lines, especially in the engine area. It'd be a shame to watch your $$ and effort go up in smoke! (old fuel lines are main cause of engine fires in old VWs)

Are you planning on going ballz-out with an approved fuel cell in the back seat, or just some ol' tank? If you're not planning on dropping some serious coin with a foam-filled cell or something decent, resist the urge to locate it in the passenger compartment. Bad joo-joo. Shocked


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Post Post subject: Zacks first bug
Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 01:00 AM
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Just saw your post in buy/sell for a spun aluminum fuel tank. I'd STRONGLY recommend that you do NOT put one of those inside the car. Seriously. I mean it.

Laughing


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'59 Baja- SOLD

5 VW's (O\!/O) since 1/2005!

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Post Post subject: Zacks first bug
Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 01:11 AM
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I see a lot of people put them inside the car(I know that doesnt make that right). Why shouldnt I relocate it into the car?

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Post Post subject: Re: Zacks first bug
Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 01:40 AM
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b00mb00m wrote:
I see a lot of people put them inside the car(I know that doesnt make that right). Why shouldnt I relocate it into the car?

The spun aluminum ones? There's lots of fuel cells inside cars, but I can't recall ever seeing a spun aluminum one inside the car. Fumes are an issue since those tanks are set up to vent through the filler cap (into the car), but the main issue is spillage in an accident or rollover. If done right, a fuel cell (foam-filled, external filled, etc.) is a nice setup. But not with a metal tank like that. Not recommended anyway.

What are your plans for the build? How much coin do you intend to drop? What sort of use do you see the car getting? These are questions that can help you determine what the best route is on much of the build, fuel storage included.


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I used to think only about 98% of the population were worthless douchebags. I'm thinking lately of revising my estimate...

'59 Baja- SOLD

5 VW's (O\!/O) since 1/2005!

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Post Post subject: Zacks first bug
Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 02:00 AM
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Right now I just want to get it running so I can go out with my jeep buddies(their already givin me shit for buying a bug).Down the road I wanna drop some money into it. For now I want to keep going on the project but have it running. I dont want alot of down time for now. Mainly two tracks and driving on the road with some dunes thrown in once in a while.

Where would you reccomend mounting an aftermarket tank? Stock location? I see in your picture you have a filler cap behind your driver door. What kind of setup are you running.

Thanks for you help.

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Post Post subject: Zacks first bug
Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 02:12 AM
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That filler cap was decommissioned and the tank removed so the car could have a back seat again. It was all done/undone before I bought it, so I have no idea what kind of tank was in there. I now have a spun aluminum tank under the one-piece front end, sitting on top of the firewall. It's a 10-gallon tank, but I wish it was bigger.

I'd buy a used stock tank if I was you- it'd be easiest and cheapest. When you're ready for more suspension, cage, one-piece front end, etc., you can start cutting and do something different. That's my .02. Smile


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I used to think only about 98% of the population were worthless douchebags. I'm thinking lately of revising my estimate...

'59 Baja- SOLD

5 VW's (O\!/O) since 1/2005!

MY GARAGE LINK
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Post Post subject: Re: Zacks first bug
Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 03:40 AM
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Heres the pics.

If I were to run a stock tank. The previous owner ran the rubber fuel line under the pan of the but. I would be nervous as hell of catching on something. Could I just run it inside the cabin or is there a way to run it in the stock place inside the tunnel?







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Post Post subject: Zacks first bug
Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 03:56 AM
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I was told its a 1600 dp motor. I dont know if thats true. But with the 1600 the carb was a 34 PICT-6 which in my book I read said dont use one for off road. My question is can I put different carbs on different engines?

I guess first I have to figure out what engine I have. How do I do that? Would a Solex 28 PICT 1 or a 30 PICT 2 of a 30 PICT three work. Is there much difference.

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Post Post subject: Zacks first bug
Posted: Wed May 13, 2009 04:56 AM
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It does appear to be a dual port. You can run a myriad of different carbs on it- single or duals. My bad on the earlier comment on the airbox tubes with the balls in them- your shroud is set up for a stock exhaust system I believe. A different doghouse without those on it is real cheap- even a chrome one I believe.

I don't know the specifics of the carbs, but I don't see any reason why the one that's on there now couldn't be made to work well.

As for your fuel line- there SHOULD be a hard line already located in the tunnel. There should be a small tube sticking out of the front tunnel, and another in the rear. Rubber fuel lines slip/clamp onto those. If you smell fuel in the car when using that hard line, there's a chance it's rusted and leaking in the tunnel. In that case, run a solid metal line through the car, clamped to the outside of the tunnel. Having a fuel line under the car is a bad idea.


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I used to think only about 98% of the population were worthless douchebags. I'm thinking lately of revising my estimate...

'59 Baja- SOLD

5 VW's (O\!/O) since 1/2005!

MY GARAGE LINK
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Post Post subject: Re: Zacks first bug
Posted: Thu May 14, 2009 11:52 PM
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Theres a spot for a wire on the carb (circled in yellow) there was no wire there. Would this make the car not idle? Where do I run the wire to?

Also I guess the vaccume line is on the retard side of the carb I have to move it to the advance side.


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