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Baja Forums -:- VW Volkswagen Bug, Baja, Bus, Sandrail and Thing -:- VW Volkswagen & Baja Bug General Discussion -:- peloading torsion bars
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peloading torsion bars
Bug, Baja, Thing and Buggies. Most every thing that will not fit any any other area. See list of other Forums for better topic placement...Volkswagen General Discussion
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cyberjaw4
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Post Post subject: peloading torsion bars
Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 06:11 AM
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ok soo im perloading my rear torsion bars and i read the "baja and buggys" book and it said for IRS to cover the bottom bolt hole with the spring plate so i did and its WAY to much its riding in the bottom stop all the time and if i stand on the back and jump up and down hard it barly moves i did it again and it looks back to stock.

where did all you guys put the torsions at?
im trying to go off moving spring plate olny cause the bar is stuck inside the tube in the car so if you got any ideas on that it might help

thanks: justin Smile

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57baja
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Post Post subject: peloading torsion bars
Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 06:49 AM
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I don't know what your budget is like, but if you have a little cash...

You can get Thing trans flanges, axles, CV's, and stub axles and got off the bottom stops. That will gain you quite a bit of travel and also ride height. My experience has been to set it halfway through the hole, but it's really going to depend on the car and how it's put together, where the weight is, cage or no cage, fuel tank location. rack or no rack, rear bumper design, rear seats, etc etc etc....

Thing CV's (T-4) are good to about 22 degrees versus 12 for Type 1's.

Does that help?


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57baja
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Post Post subject: peloading torsion bars
Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 06:52 AM
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The bar length will also affect the preload,as well as the diameter. There are three different lengths: 21+", 24+", and 26+" were all stock, and there were also different stock diameters. These factors will all affect spring rate.


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cyberjaw4
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Post Post subject: peloading torsion bars
Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 07:50 AM
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ok that does help

the bug is still a stock 73 everythings still the same just cut off the back and a small engine cage no roll cage and no back seat

any tips on getting the the bar out of the inside i have tryed pullin my little heart out and wigglin and shaken but it wont budge the other side came out ok but this side wont

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cyberjaw4
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Post Post subject: Re: peloading torsion bars
Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 07:57 AM
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57baja wrote:

You can get Thing trans flanges, axles, CV's, and stub axles and cut off the bottom stops.
Thing CV's (T-4) are good to about 22 degrees versus 12 for Type 1's.

will the thing CV's fit with the stock but stuff or do you need to get it all
where would the best place to get that stuff??

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AzBaja
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Post Post subject: Re: peloading torsion bars
Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 08:31 AM
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cyberjaw4 wrote:
ok that does help

the bug is still a stock 73 everythings still the same just cut off the back and a small engine cage no roll cage and no back seat

any tips on getting the the bar out of the inside i have tryed pullin my little heart out and wigglin and shaken but it wont budge the other side came out ok but this side wont

Take the other side out an knock it from that side.

Also the inner splins are odd I think ant the outer are evan. So you have a few tricks. you can go 2 splins outer and 1 back inner or 2 splines outer and 1 back inner or rotate the bar 180 degrees on the inner. or evan 90" forward or back and reset from that point.

Just make sure you mark the bar so you lwas know what way is up before you start to play ith moving it around.

Last the hole is a good spot to start but a tap from the tip of the bar to the rear body corner will gie you a better idea of how much you are off side to side. 1' at 4" is small 1' at 18" is real easy to see.


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57baja
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Post Post subject: Re: peloading torsion bars
Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 08:52 AM
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cyberjaw4 wrote:
57baja wrote:

You can get Thing trans flanges, axles, CV's, and stub axles and cut off the bottom stops.
Thing CV's (T-4) are good to about 22 degrees versus 12 for Type 1's.

will the thing CV's fit with the stock but stuff or do you need to get it all
where would the best place to get that stuff??

You need to do it all, as the CV's are larger diameter than Type 1's. If you want stuff in a hurry, you can get conversion stub axles, trans flanges, and CV's from your local cool VW off-road parts supplier. I use Mooreparts here in California, but Chirco would also be a logical choice. If you want to be patient and save some serious money, you can keep an eye on eBay, the Samba Classifieds, and even here on the classifieds. Deals come up often.

I'm building a baja Squareback for my kid and we're doing the mods I mentioned above. I just bought a pair of Thing Stubs for $50 on eBay. I know a guy that was going to sell be a complete Thing tranny (Type 1 with the larger flanges) for $100. I was going to do that, but I found a 002 bus trans for $200 instead. Consequently, they are the same size and bolt pattern for the CV's, just different. I also bought 2 complete Thing drive axles complete, assembled, and NEW for dirt cheap, but I don't want to reveal where I got those until I inspect them first. They're not here yet. They're in transit still.

The stuff is out there. Just keep your eyes open. Try Craig's List, too!


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Post Post subject: peloading torsion bars
Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 09:25 AM
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ok welp im new and i think messed up already took the whole rear suspension apart and never marked anything except where the wheel bolts to the spring plate for setting the tow i never marked the torsion bars or anything else

how badly messed up am i Sad

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Post Post subject: peloading torsion bars
Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 04:04 PM
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You're done. Have it towed away. It's junk now.


Don't worry about it. Just orient the bars in the same position as best as possible. The spring plate orientation in relation to the holes in the torsion housing will tell you when everything is right. Just set them up evenly on both sides. The only thing you REALLY need to worry about is not putting the left one on the right side, and vice-versa. They take a "Set" and they will weaken if you flip sides with them. They're marked though, so pay attention. You should check and set the toe at ride height when everything else is to your satisfaction.


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Post Post subject: peloading torsion bars
Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 04:11 PM
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Go get a degree magnet from harbor freight or some one like that and make sure both arms are set at the same degree before you put it back together.


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Post Post subject: peloading torsion bars
Posted: Thu Feb 26, 2009 07:28 PM
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so i know the torsion bars have to be a left or a right but it doesnt matter if i take the bar out and spin it a little then set the spring plate back on as long as the spring plates are set to the same on both sides correct

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Post Post subject: Re: peloading torsion bars
Posted: Sun Aug 16, 2009 01:16 AM
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I know this is an old one but I wanted to ask another question about preload, before I dive in again.
I have stock 22mm x 26 9/16" torsion bars.
I set them to the position recommended in Bugs and Buggies book but found out that was a bit too much. My shop manual says to set them at 17' 30" (degrees/minutes) Problem I see almost every where is no one seems to mention what these bars should be set at.
I think back to stock will be fine since I'm running 31" tires on the rear and have a 3" body lift. So clearance is not much of an issue.


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Post Post subject: Re: peloading torsion bars
Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 12:54 AM
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Um,,,YO!
Any one,,, help....


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Post Post subject: Re: peloading torsion bars
Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 04:40 PM
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locutisj wrote:
My shop manual says to set them at 17' 30" (degrees/minutes) Problem I see almost every where is no one seems to mention what these bars should be set at.
I think back to stock will be fine since I'm running 31" tires on the rear and have a 3" body lift. So clearance is not much of an issue.

If you want stock, as per your manual, level the car's floorpan, then set the spring plate to 17/30 down from level.

If it were me, I would place the lower edge of the springplate to the top of the lower bolt hole. And try it out.


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Post Post subject: Re: peloading torsion bars
Posted: Sat Aug 22, 2009 11:27 PM
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DONT wrote:
locutisj wrote:
My shop manual says to set them at 17' 30" (degrees/minutes) Problem I see almost every where is no one seems to mention what these bars should be set at.
I think back to stock will be fine since I'm running 31" tires on the rear and have a 3" body lift. So clearance is not much of an issue.

If you want stock, as per your manual, level the car's floorpan, then set the spring plate to 17/30 down from level.

If it were me, I would place the lower edge of the springplate to the top of the lower bolt hole. And try it out.

I believe that is where I set them and it's way too stiff. Bounces like two giant basket balls with no suspension give. I'll verify when I take the second side down. I didn't pay any attention on the first side since the inner grommit was in pieces (even tho it was urethane) for fear of that effecting where the spring plate would stop in relation to the bolt hole.
Would this setting of the bolt hole be the same for these bars? 22mm x 26 9/16.


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