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Baja Forums -:- AzBaja.com Members -:- Projects and Builds -:- 90xj's baja build
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90xj's baja build
Tell us about your Project, Were you at in tyour build. Post Pictures etc.
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The following users give thanks for this topic Anonymous - Fri Mar 20, 2009 12:17 PM
90xjlimited4x4
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Post Post subject: Re: 90xj's baja build
Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 03:12 AM
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Made some progress the last couple days tog the irs pivot brackets cut and ground to be welded. cant use the welder for a few more days till we the the dryer back in the laundry room as of right now i dont have a welder plug. also check travel numbers they seem low might have to notch the bottom of the spring plate to get some more. not sure if thats a good idea though cause i cut alot of the torsion housing.

the rear mocked up

full bump

full droop

i know that these measurements are only possible numbers i still have to account for cv axle angles but i would assume that a 3x3 with 930 cv's and a bus trans could get more than 8.25 inches of travel....

this being my first bug i dont really have a clue though!

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Post Post subject: Re: 90xj's baja build
Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 04:43 AM
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You would or should be right in that assumption if everything is set up right. You really can't tell where your suspension will be at in travel till you get your cv's and shocks hooked up. Are you going to race prep your cv's?


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Post Post subject: Re: 90xj's baja build
Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 09:23 AM
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Leatherneck wrote:
Are you going to race prep your cv's?
race prep..... never done that before..... Question whats that? is it easy?

btw i will be using 12inch stroke 2.5 fox resivors with the 7/8 shaft so shocks shouldn't limit travel i think my travel limiter will be tire size or cv's.....


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Post Post subject: Re: 90xj's baja build
Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 11:11 PM
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Here is some info for you to work on.

For off-road use, it’s better if the whole joint is kept just a little loose. There may be a slight increase in noise, but it shouldn’t bother you during racing. The benefits are that the joints will survive heavy knocks, and they’ll also handle the large, rapid changes in direction, as the suspension cycles up and down.



A new CV joint is quite a rigid assembly, making it difficult to rotate the internals by hand. If you did manage to rotate the innards of a new joint to the point where the balls could be pulled out, you’d have a hell of a job reassembling it all.



Race CVs are fine tuned by lightening the exterior of the housing, and polishing and relieving the internals. The housing is made from alloy steel, but only the inner tracks are induction heat-treated. This means narrow grooves can quite easily be machined away to reduce the rotating mass and unsprung weight. Do not buy regular lightened "race" CVs, as they have a wide area of material machined off the outsides of the housings, and can’t be fitted inside the R6’s bearings.

The depth of the case hardening of the tracks is in the vicinity of 1.2mm to 2.5mm, so some grinding to a depth of 0.25mm by specialist CV reconditioners (to accept 0.50mm oversize balls) is possible, and light honing by racers is perfectly acceptable.

Highly accurate machines using CBN coated grinding “stones” are used in the regrinding process, and should not be attempted with a hand held die-grinder in the home workshop.



Don’t use any pitted or scored parts, as they will promote rapid wear and consequently, the whole CV joint could fail. If you find any pitting in the cross grooves of a star or housing, just use one of your spare CVs, but don’t throw out any damaged stars yet!



Part of the housing and star manufacturing process involves broaching the cross grooves. The drag marks on the surface of the grooves are usually clearly visible. All the bearing surfaces need to be polished with aluminium oxide abrasives.


Pick a sound, clean star and clamp it in the vice so about half of it is above the vice jaws. Mount an expanding arbor in the die-grinder, and push a 80 grit sanding sleeve onto it. Holding the die grinder with both hands, lightly polish the entire surface of each cross groove. Don’t apply too much pressure, and keep the axis of the arbor aligned with the axis of the groove at all times. The object is to achieve a uniform light grey finish with no shiny spots.


Clamp the CV housings in the vice, and give their cross grooves a light polish too.


The cages require a lot of fettling, but being a difficult, frail item, are easier done while being held in the hand. Put on the gloves, and holding a cage in one hand, give the windows a very light “lick” with the drum sander. Make sure the drum’s axis remains at 90 degrees to the cage’s axis, and keep the sander moving in a controlled circular motion around the inside of the windows. Don’t let it dwell on any one spot, or you will create notches, which the ball could get hung up in. The object of this process is to slightly relieve the windows, while at the same time, softening the edges of the openings to prevent stress risers and subsequent cracks from forming.

Stop frequently, and try a ball in the window. It shouldn’t bind anywhere in the window, and should just be able to drop through without having to be forced.


Finally, very lightly, sand both the inner and outer sharp edges of the windows. Remove the absolute minimum amount of material. Test with a finger, and if it feels sharp, give it another light lick.

Have fun, remember go slow, little at a time.


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Post Post subject: Re: 90xj's baja build
Posted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 02:20 AM
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ok so all that said and done whats the advantage/ disadvantage? i would assume that a clearanced joint will wear out faster, and need more tlc to maintain?

from what ive read a standard 930 cv will hold up to 22 degrees what will a race prepped one withstand? and of course what differences of travel?

guess what im really asking for

1. is a few pictures of clearanced cv's

2. degree differences

3. and different amounts of travel available stock 930 cv vs prepped cv


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Post Post subject: Re: 90xj's baja build
Posted: Sun Jun 15, 2008 05:16 PM
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90xjlimited4x4 wrote:
ok so all that said and done whats the advantage/ disadvantage? i would assume that a clearanced joint will wear out faster, and need more tlc to maintain?

Will the amount of wear be measurable compared to not doing anything? Probably not. Will you get the degrees without doing the prep, I would say not.

90xjlimited4x4 wrote:
from what ive read a standard 930 cv will hold up to 22 degrees what will a race prepped one withstand? and of course what differences of travel?
CV's out of the box will be doing good to get 18° yes there are variables but that is the norm from what people are saying, hard getting real numbers most stretch what they are getting or just guess what it should be.

90xjlimited4x4 wrote:
guess what im really asking for

1. is a few pictures of clearanced cv's

2. degree differences

3. and different amounts of travel available stock 930 cv vs prepped cv

Here is a good site, has some pics to look at too. Bottom line if you want to get the numbers everybody is or claims to get you have to do the work (prep) to them. Some even go as far as getting undersized balls to go in the cage. Even if you don't want the travel, you still should do some work on them to get rid of machine marks or wear marks if used. www.dune-buggy.com/tec...ishing.htm


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Post Post subject: Re: 90xj's baja build
Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 04:42 AM
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looks good but i found out for sure that my frame horns are bent today! Evil or Very Mad so now its time to dissasemble it again grind the tacked brackets off and redo it all so i know its centered....


im thinking its time to make my own frame horns.... whats everyone think???


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Post Post subject: Re: 90xj's baja build (frame horns must be bent)
Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 05:08 AM
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C'mon. Bent frame horns? How do you figure that? That would be a first that I've ever heard of..... on a STREET CAR? Are you sure? I'm not doubting. I'm just REALLY curious!


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Post Post subject: Re: 90xj's baja build (frame horns must be bent)
Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 05:17 AM
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the trans mount plate doesnt center (different gaps between slot edges) i also dropped a plum line off of the center of the car and the right bolt is 1/2 inch off the left measurement......

i would love to have a out side opinion come look at the bug and tell me its right or wrong


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Post Post subject: Re: 90xj's baja build (frame horns must be bent)
Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 07:15 AM
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I'll be over after the meeting next Thursday. You may even find a couple of other guys there that may swing by, too.


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Post Post subject: Re: 90xj's baja build
Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 07:23 AM
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90xjlimited4x4 wrote:

looks good but i found out for sure that my frame horns are bent today! Evil or Very Mad so now its time to dissasemble it again grind the tacked brackets off and redo it all so i know its centered....


im thinking its time to make my own frame horns.... whats everyone think???
Is that little set up all you need to do and irs swap?


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Post Post subject: Re: 90xj's baja build (frame horns must be bent)
Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 08:17 AM
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That is torsion housing (correct term?) with new horn arms and trailing arms.

I wonder if that setup is made for no spring plates? Looks like it!


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Post Post subject: Re: 90xj's baja build (frame horns must be bent)
Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 06:01 PM
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WaBaja wrote:
That is torsion housing (correct term?) with new horn arms and trailing arms.

I wonder if that setup is made for no spring plates? Looks like it!
ya that particular setup appears to be made for coil overs and zero camber change through the suspensions cycle


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Post Post subject: Re: 90xj's baja build (frame horns must be bent)
Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 07:44 PM
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Yes, that is for making a custom rail. To install in a Baja would be a bit of a chore, but do-able.


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Post Post subject: Re: 90xj's baja build (frame horns must be bent)
Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2008 09:14 PM
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DONT wrote:
Yes, that is for making a custom rail. To install in a Baja would be a bit of a chore, but do-able.
i'm tossing up the idea of making my own frame horns off of the stock torsion tube. seems likt tthat wouldnt be to bad.


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